Living Here: Quiet Moments at the X'matkuil Fair

I always go to the Yucatán fair held each November at X'matkuil, on the outskirts of Mérida. Typically I go during off-hours, when there aren't too many people in attendance.

I drove out to the fairgrounds Friday afternoon just a little ahead of the crowds that would mob the place on this, the last weekend before closing. I like to avoid the jostle and crush. The razzle-dazzle of lights and noise, the midway, huge crowds, and the throbbing music of the beer gardens, concerts and other attractions just aren't my style.

What I like about X'matkuil is the old-time country fair aspect: prize animals, agricultural displays, crafts and the horse-riding events. I enjoy wandering and observing in the nooks and crannies of the fair, away from the the bright lights, big noise and clamor.

One of the beautiful things I saw late Friday was this pair of lovely horses. I am not a horse person, so I can't say what kind these are or describe them in accurate horsey language. One was white with gray spots, with a deep brown-red "cap" on it head that flowed like a cape down its back, and strands of reddish mane that hung down its face. The other was a soft silvery gray, with wonderful chocolate-brown freckling all over its body.

The horses were well socialized. They both noticed me and moved closer as I began to take photos. Then, at once they moved together toward the division between their separate stalls and took turns stretching their necks across the divide to nuzzle and caress each other. All the while, they maintained eye contact with me, as if posing and communicating, "See, here's my good buddy."

I enjoy watching displays of horsemanship, roping and riding, so I moved on to the arena to see what the charros, cowboys in traditional dress, were doing. I witnessed a moment of pageantry as teams of competitors entered the arena to the rhythm-heavy clamor of a four-piece band. It was great to watch the riders salute as they rode their beautiful animals around the arena. It was moving to participate moments later as the competitors and audience removed hats and applauded for one minute in memory of a fellow competitor who had recently passed away.

I visited the butterfly exhibit, a large screened-in area full of native and non-native species. It's fun to be able to walk among hundreds of free-flying butterflies, who seem to be unafraid and go about their business. In this exhibit it's possible to observe various species up close, and also to watch butterflies hatch before ones' eyes. If you stand still, it's not unusual here to have a butterfly land on you. One perched on my forehead for a moment (leaving no time to get a picture, unfortunately) before fluttering on its way.

It is interesting to see so many exotic butterflies close up, and great fun to watch the children react to the situation. Many school groups were in attendance this day, and the younger crowd is particularly enchanted by the sight of so many of these colorful insects up close. They were equally fascinated by the fish in an artificial pond inside the butterfly area.

Then there were the pigs. What can I say? I like them, especially the native Yucatecan cerdo pelon, or hairless pig. They are small, dark and bald, and I enjoyed watching a group of them rapidly vacuum up a large container of leftover tortillas in about half a minute. This is a species utilized by the Maya and that was once ubiquitous on the penninsula, but whose numbers had fallen drastically over the years as many pork producers shifted to larger, faster-growing commercial breeds. However recent efforts to revive pure genetic lines of this native animal, which is perfectly adapted to the climate and forage available in Yucatán (reducing the need for small producers to buy expensive commercial feed), seem to be successful. The population is growing, and efforts to market products from these animals as specialty items appear to be paying off.

Those are a few highlights of my afternoon at the fair. I did get into the crowds some and enjoyed a bit of the music and high-energy activity, but these quiet moments were the ones I appreciated most. X'matkuil offers something for everyone, and tens of thousands of people attend the fair and find much to enjoy. I am completely content to forego many of the big attractions in favor of exploring the smaller exhibits and quiet corners of the fair.

Here's an earlier post about the fair at X'matkuil, Yucatán in the Snow Zone.

State Fair: Yucatán in the Snow Zone

"Have Fun in the Arctic. The Snow Zone, a Frozen Novelty," a promotion reads. The juxtaposition in this photo of a polar bear, a penguin on an igloo, and a palm tree, to say nothing of the elderly couple walking by, the señor in guayabera and señora in her traditional Yucatecan huipil, is a bit of a stretch for more than one reason. However, for the Yucatàn State Fair, held annually at X'matkuil, near Mèrida, novelty and excitement are the keys to a good time.

Folks going to this year's fair can watch an ice show, build snowmen and have snowball fights in the "Zona Nevada," or Snow Zone, as well as get their picture taken riding an innertube down an icy slope. It may not look like much to northerners used to real cold, snowy winters, but to some of these kids who have never felt cold weather, seen snow, or touched ice other than in a drink or popsicle, it is a small miracle.

This fair is no longer a backwoods event. Started long ago as an agricultural fair, X'matkuil has evolved into a 24-day spectacular with events and exhibits of interest for everyone. The traditional livestock exhibits, horse shows, midway rides and games are there. Anyone who grew up in the States and attended state or county fairs will feel right at home.

Organizers of X'matkuil are determined to keep people coming back. Other events include: concerts by nationally and internationally famous artists (Gloria Trevi is one this year); a dolphin show housed in a huge salt-water tank; a circus and clown festival; a boxing tournament; horsemanship and roping shows; Yucatecan music and dance events. A polo tournament, bodybuilding shows and group wedding are also on the calendar. All varieties of food are available, from simple tacos, pizza and sandwiches to fancy multi-course dinners, and beer gardens with live music and dancing run from afternoon until late into the evening.

Go carts, puppet shows, dance and martial arts displays and lessons, a display of birds of prey, other wild animals, orchid and edible and medicinal plants shows, a huge variety of traditional crafts and food items of Yucatàn, Mayan language recitals and a great deal more goes on during the fair. It's too much to take in on one visit.

Despite all of the fancy events, I enjoy the old-time stuff. I have the most fun wandering through the agricultural exhibits, where you can look at the latest in farm equipment, feed, irrigation technology, tractors and trucks, household goods, and all of the practical stuff that farmers and ranchers like to look at when they come to the fair. This is how it all started, and these displays remain a key function of the fair.

More than anything, I like looking at the livestock: cattle, sheep, goats, pigs, chickens, turkeys, ducks and tilapia (yes, fish farming), along with displays of horses and ponies and other show animals. The owners are usually around, and it is possible to ask questions, approach the animals, and maybe touch or help feed them if you want to.

My other favorites include the traditional crafts exhibits, where all variety of Yucatecan natural and handmade products are being made, are on display and for sale. The image shows a display of some of the baskets and containers made in the old way from creepers and vines gathered in the countryside. Other local products include clothing and fine embroidery, furniture, items made with hennequen fiber, gourds and wood, artwork, and many foods, including sweet drinks and delicacies made of fruit, liquors and Yucatecan honey, said to be among the best in the world.

There are a few displays of wild animals of Yucatàn. I'll end with this short video of ducks, because they are lovely, and I would like to have someone help me identify them. I am told they are indigenous to Yucatàn, but don't have a lot of other information.

This is just a quick overview of X'matkuil. There is lots more to see and do there. I went in the afternoon because I wanted to take pictures, and because I prefer to attend when the crowds are thin. On weekends, tens of thousands of people flock to the fair. Going out to X'matkuil is a good way to learn a lot about this region, and appreciate many of its unique qualities.